The world of power tools is vast and diverse, encompassing a wide array of devices designed to make tasks faster, easier, and more precise than their manual counterparts. From shaping wood and cutting metal to driving fasteners and maintaining landscapes, power tools are indispensable assets in countless trades, workshops, and homes. They represent a significant leap in efficiency, precision, and capability, enabling complex projects and routine maintenance alike.

    This guide serves as a clear, comprehensive, and visually supported reference to 100 distinct power tools. Its objective is to demystify the function and application of each tool, providing a practical resource for DIY enthusiasts, homeowners, apprentices, and anyone seeking a broader understanding of the available technology. The tools listed span various domains, including woodworking, metalworking, construction, automotive repair, and gardening, reflecting the breadth of tasks power tools address.

    To facilitate navigation and understanding, the tools are categorized based on their primary function or area of application. It's important to note that many power tools are versatile and could potentially fit into multiple categories; however, they are placed here based on their most common or defining use. Each entry includes the tool's name, a description of its primary functions and common uses, and a placeholder for a representative image to aid identification.

    Several key themes emerge when surveying the power tool landscape. The ongoing evolution from corded to cordless technology, driven by advancements in battery life and power, offers users unprecedented portability and convenience. Concurrently, the development of brushless motors provides enhanced performance, longer runtime, and increased tool lifespan compared to traditional brushed motors. Power tools can be broadly divided into stationary machines, often offering greater precision and power for workshop-based tasks, and portable handheld tools, valued for their mobility and flexibility on job sites. Across all types, safety remains paramount, with manufacturers incorporating features like adjustable guards, anti-vibration technology, and sophisticated electronic controls to protect users. Furthermore, the sheer variety of tools highlights a trend towards specialization. While multi-purpose tools exist, many power tools are designed for highly specific tasks or materials, such as the distinct roles of impact drivers (for screws) versus impact wrenches (for bolts) , or jointers (for flattening faces/edges) versus planers (for thicknessing). Understanding these nuances is key to selecting the right tool for the job, ensuring both safety and optimal results.

Drilling, Driving, and Fastening Tools

    This section covers tools primarily designed to create holes, drive fasteners (screws, bolts, nails, staples, rivets), or tighten/loosen nuts and bolts. These are fundamental tasks in assembly, construction, and repair across numerous disciplines.

Cordless Drill/Driver

  1. Cordless Drill/Driver

  • Considered one of the most versatile and esse
    tial power tools, the cordless drill/driver is primarily used for drilling holes in materials such as wood, metal, and plastic, as well as for driving screws.     Its applications range from simple household tasks like hanging shelves and pictures to more involved furniture assembly and construction projects. Cordless models offer significant advantages in mobility and ease of use, particularly in tight or awkward spaces where a cord would be cumbersome, though corded versions provide continuous power. The tool's power is often indicated by its voltage rating, with higher voltages suitable for more demanding jobs. Modern iterations may include features like Autosense technology to prevent overdriving screws, enhancing control for users. Different chuck sizes (commonly 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, or 1/2-inch) accommodate various drill and driver bit shank sizes. The frequent inclusion of cordless drill/drivers in power tool combo kits underscores its status as a foundational tool for both homeowners and professionals.
Impact Driver

  1. Impact Driver

  • An impact driver is a compact, high-torque tool specifically engineered for driving screws and, to a lesser extent, small bolts. It utilizes a hammering mechanism that delivers rapid rotational impacts, allowing it to drive long or large-diameter screws into dense materials with significantly less effort and reduced risk of stripping the screw head compared to a standard drill/driver. Featuring a distinctive 1/4-inch hexagonal quick-change chuck, it accepts hex-shank driver bits. Common applications include deck building, framing, cabinet installation, and other construction or woodworking tasks involving repetitive or heavy-duty screw driving. While similar in name, it is crucial to distinguish it from an impact wrench, which is designed for much higher torque applications involving large nuts and bolts, typically in automotive or heavy machinery settings. The impact driver fills a specific niche, providing more driving power than a drill/driver without the excessive force of an impact wrench.
Hammer Drill

  1. Hammer Drill

  • A hammer drill enhances the rotational action of a standard drill with a percussive (hammering) mechanism, making it effective for drilling into masonry materials like brick, mortar, concrete block, and light concrete. This hammering action is typically generated by two ridged discs interacting via a clutch mechanism. While more powerful for masonry than a standard drill, it is generally less powerful and durable than a dedicated rotary hammer, especially for drilling larger holes or working in dense, poured concrete. Many hammer drills offer selectable modes, allowing users to switch between standard drilling (for wood, metal) and hammer drilling (for masonry), adding versatility. They are a suitable choice for homeowners, DIYers, and tradespeople who need to drill occasional, smaller-diameter holes (generally up to 1/2 inch) in light to medium masonry. The existence of both hammer drills and the more robust rotary hammers reflects a tiered approach catering to different levels of masonry drilling intensity and user needs

Electric Screwdriver

  1. Electric Screwdriver

  • This tool is a lightweight, lower-torque power tool specifically designed for driving and removing screws in applications where precision and control are more important than high power. It excels in tasks such as assembling furniture (especially flat-pack), working on electronics, installing light fixtures, and driving screws into pre-threaded holes or soft materials where the risk of stripping or over-tightening is a concern. Often more compact and easier to handle than a full-sized drill/driver for simple screw tasks, it frequently features adjustable torque settings to prevent damage to delicate components or materials. Available in both corded and highly portable cordless versions, some models are miniaturized for precision work on electronics. Its persistence in the market, despite the capabilities of drills and impact drivers, highlights its value for controlled, low-torque fastening.
Impact Wrench

  1. Impact Wrench

  • An impact wrench is a high-torque power tool specifically designed for loosening and tightening large bolts, nuts, and lag screws efficiently. It delivers powerful rotational impacts (bursts of torque) to overcome resistance, making it essential for automotive repair tasks like removing wheel lug nuts or working on suspension and engine components. It is also widely used in heavy equipment maintenance and construction projects involving large fasteners. Impact wrenches are available in pneumatic (air-powered), corded electric, and increasingly powerful cordless electric versions, with cordless models offering maximum portability. They are characterized by a square drive anvil (sizes typically range from 1/4" to 1") designed to fit impact sockets. While utilizing a similar impact principle, impact wrenches generate significantly higher torque and are generally larger and heavier than impact drivers, which are optimized for screws.
Electric Ratchet Wrench

  1. Cordless Ratchet Wrench / Electric Ratchet Wrench

  • This battery-powered tool automates the action of a manual ratchet, designed to rapidly tighten or loosen nuts and bolts, especially in confined areas where swinging a traditional ratchet handle is difficult or tedious. It blends the speed advantage of a power tool with the familiar form factor and control of a manual ratchet, reducing physical strain on the user's wrist and arm during repetitive tasks. Its compact head design provides excellent access in tight spots like engine bays, under dashboards, or within machinery. Common applications include automotive maintenance, furniture assembly, mechanical repairs, plumbing work, and bike maintenance. While it provides moderate torque suitable for many tasks, it's generally not intended for breaking loose extremely tight fasteners (a task better suited for an impact wrench) but excels at quickly running fasteners on or off. Available in common square drive sizes (1/4", 3/8", 1/2").
Pneumatic Ratchet

  1. Air Ratchet Wrench (Pneumatic Ratchet)

  • Functionally similar to a cordless ratchet, the air ratchet wrench uses compressed air from an air compressor as its power source. It is widely used in automotive repair shops and industrial settings where compressed air systems are readily available. Like its cordless counterpart, it excels at rapidly tightening and loosening nuts and bolts, especially in tight or awkward spaces where manual ratcheting is slow and cumbersome. Air ratchets typically offer a good power-to-weight ratio and can be used continuously without concerns about battery life or overheating, making them suitable for high-volume tasks. However, their reliance on an air hose connected to a compressor limits their portability compared to battery-powered versions. They are available in various drive sizes, with 3/8" being common for automotive work.
Framing Nailer

  1. Framing Nailer (Nail Gun)

  • A powerful, heavy-duty nail gun purpose-built for wood framing in construction. It drives large framing nails (typically 2 inches to 3-1/4 inches or longer, often with.113" to.131" shank diameters) at high speed to assemble structural elements like wall studs, floor joists, roof rafters, trusses, sheathing, and subflooring. Its use dramatically increases the speed and efficiency of frame construction compared to manual hammering. Other applications include building decks, fences, and constructing wooden crates or pallets. Framing nailers use collated nails, either in straight strips or round coils, with coil nailers offering higher capacity for increased productivity. They are available in pneumatic versions, which require an air compressor but offer consistent power for large jobs, and cordless versions (powered by fuel cells/batteries or battery-only) that provide greater mobility. Features often include adjustable depth-of-drive control and selectable firing modes (sequential for precision or bump-fire for speed).

Finish Nailer

  1. Finish Nailer (Nail Gun)

  • A pneumatic or cordless nail gun designed for finish carpentry tasks, such as attaching baseboards, crown molding, window and door casings, chair rails, cabinetry components, and other decorative trim. It drives intermediate-gauge finish nails, typically 15-gauge or 16-gauge, which are thinner than framing nails but thicker and stronger than brads. This nail size provides good holding power for trim pieces while leaving a relatively small hole that can be easily filled and painted for a clean appearance. Finish nailers bridge the gap between the heavy-duty fastening of framing nailers and the delicate work of brad nailers. Features often include adjustable depth control for precise nail setting, tool-free jam clearing mechanisms, and selectable triggers (sequential or contact firing). Oil-free designs prevent staining of woodwork.
Brad Nailer

  1. Brad Nailer (Nail Gun)

  • A lightweight pneumatic or cordless nail gun that drives fine-gauge nails known as brads, typically 18-gauge. Brad nailers are used for attaching small or delicate trim pieces, thin paneling, picture frames, birdhouses, and for various craft and hobby applications where minimal fastener visibility is desired. The thin brads have small heads (or sometimes no head), creating very small entry holes that often require little or no filling, minimizing the impact on the wood's appearance and reducing the risk of splitting thin materials. Due to their small size, brads offer less holding power than finish or framing nails and are not suitable for structural applications or attaching heavy items. Some models may offer combined brad nailing and narrow crown stapling capabilities.
Roofing Nailer

  1. Roofing Nailer (Nail Gun)

  • A highly specialized pneumatic nail gun exclusively designed for installing roofing materials, primarily asphalt and fiberglass shingles, onto roof decking. It drives specific roofing nails, which are typically short (7/8" to 1-3/4") with wide, flat heads to securely hold shingles without tearing through them, and often feature ring shanks for enhanced holding power against wind uplift. Roofing nailers almost universally use coil collation, meaning the nails are wired together in a coil that feeds into the tool's magazine. This coil design allows for a very high nail capacity (often 120 nails or more), minimizing the frequency of reloading, which is crucial for efficiency and safety when working on a roof. The tool's design is often optimized for ergonomics during rooftop use. While primarily pneumatic for speed and reliability in professional settings, they are essential for any shingle installation or re-roofing project.
Pneumatic Stapler

  1. Pneumatic Stapler / Crown Stapler

  • An air-powered tool that rapidly drives metal staples for fastening various materials. Pneumatic staplers are categorized by the gauge (thickness) of the staple wire and the width of the staple's crown (the top connecting part). Wide crown staplers (e.g., 7/16" or 1" crown) are often used in construction for securing sheathing, subflooring, house wrap, and roofing felt. Medium crown staplers serve similar construction applications. Narrow crown staplers (e.g., 1/4" crown) are used for finer work like attaching trim, molding, cabinet backs, soffits, and in furniture or upholstery assembly where the narrow crown is less conspicuous. Fine wire staplers are used for upholstery and crafts. They offer faster operation than manual staplers and require an air compressor. Some multi-function tools can drive both narrow crown staples and brad or finish nails.
    Power Rivet Gun

  1. Power Rivet Gun (Cordless/Electric)

  • A tool designed to automate the installation of blind rivets (commonly known as pop rivets), providing a faster and less strenuous alternative to manual hand riveters. It securely fastens two or more pieces of material, typically sheet metal, but also applicable to plastics or wood (often requiring washers), by inserting a rivet into a pre-drilled hole and activating the tool. The gun pulls the rivet's central stem (mandrel), causing the rivet body on the blind side to deform and clamp the materials together, after which the mandrel snaps off. Power rivet guns are available in electric (corded or cordless) and pneumatic versions. Cordless models, such as those offered by Milwaukee, provide portability and are increasingly popular in workshops and for field repairs. They are widely used in manufacturing, automotive bodywork, HVAC ducting, metal fabrication, boat building, and various repair applications. Different nose pieces are typically included or available to accommodate various rivet diameters and materials.

Cutting and Sawing Tools

    This section focuses on tools whose primary purpose is to cut or sever materials like wood, metal, plastic, tile, or concrete using blades, abrasive discs, or specialized cutters. Cutting is a fundamental operation in fabrication, construction, and repair.

Circular Saw

  1. Circular Saw

  • A highly versatile handheld power saw featuring a rapidly rotating flat, circular blade, designed primarily for making straight cuts in wood. It excels at making both crosscuts (cutting across the wood grain) and rip cuts (cutting along the wood grain). With the appropriate blade, it can also cut plywood, plastics, and sometimes metals. Most circular saws allow for adjusting the cutting depth and tilting the baseplate (shoe) to make bevel cuts at various angles. It is a fundamental tool in construction for tasks like framing lumber and cutting sheathing, as well as in woodworking for breaking down large sheets of material or making general cuts. Available in corded models for continuous power and popular cordless versions offering portability. Common blade diameters include 6-1/2 inches and 7-1/4 inches. Accuracy can be enhanced by using straightedge guides. Its combination of power, versatility, and portability makes it one of the most common power saws.
Miter Saw

  1. Miter Saw (Chop Saw - Wood)

  • A specialized power saw, typically stationary or benchtop-mounted, designed for making precise crosscuts and angled (miter) cuts in wood. It features a circular blade mounted on a pivoting arm that lowers ("chops") onto the workpiece, which is held securely against an adjustable fence. Miter saws are essential for tasks requiring accurate angles, such as cutting trim molding (baseboards, crown molding), picture frames, and framing lumber for construction. Various types exist: basic chop saws (90-degree cuts only), standard miter saws (cut angles left and right), compound miter saws (blade also tilts for bevel cuts), and sliding compound miter saws (blade slides horizontally for cutting wider boards). Common blade sizes are 10 inches and 12 inches. They offer significantly greater accuracy for miter and bevel cuts compared to handheld circular saws. While sometimes called a "chop saw," this term can also refer to abrasive metal-cutting saws, so context is important.
Table Saw

  1. Table Saw

  • A cornerstone stationary woodworking machine featuring a circular saw blade mounted beneath a flat table surface, with the blade projecting upward through a slot. Workpieces are guided past the blade using either a rip fence (a guide parallel to the blade for making rip cuts along the grain) or a miter gauge (a sliding guide for making crosscuts across the grain at various angles). Table saws are renowned for their ability to make highly accurate and repeatable straight rip cuts and crosscuts. The blade's height (depth of cut) and angle (for bevel cuts) are typically adjustable. Considered essential in most woodworking shops, they are used for dimensioning solid lumber, cutting sheet goods (plywood, MDF), and making various joinery cuts. Models range from portable jobsite saws to large, heavy-duty cabinet saws offering greater power and precision. Due to the exposed blade, safety features like blade guards, splitters or riving knives (to prevent kickback), and anti-kickback pawls are crucial, with advanced systems like SawStop offering blade-stopping technology.
Jigsaw

  1. Jigsaw

  • A versatile handheld power saw characterized by a narrow, reciprocating blade, primarily used for cutting curves, circles, and intricate shapes in materials like wood, plastic, metal, and laminates. Its maneuverability allows it to follow complex patterns. Jigsaws can also make straight cuts, often aided by a guide, and are capable of plunge cutting – starting a cut within the material's surface rather than from an edge. Many models feature orbital action settings, which introduce a forward-and-back motion in addition to the up-and-down stroke, allowing for faster, more aggressive cuts (useful in wood) or smoother, more controlled cuts (better for metal or fine curves). It's an essential tool for tasks like cutting openings for sinks or electrical boxes, creating decorative shapes, and coping molding. Available in both corded and cordless versions, with blade types varying widely depending on the material and desired cut quality.
Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall)

  1. Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall)

  • A powerful, robust handheld saw featuring a long, relatively flexible blade that moves back and forth rapidly in a reciprocating (push-pull) motion. Primarily designed for demolition, rough cutting, and pruning, it excels at cutting through a wide variety of materials, including wood (even with embedded nails), metal pipes and conduit, plastic (PVC), drywall, plaster, and even masonry with the appropriate blade. Its design allows it to reach into awkward or tight spaces where other saws cannot operate easily. Commonly used in renovation and remodeling for tasks like cutting out old window frames, removing sections of pipe or studs, and general teardown work. Often referred to by the popular Milwaukee brand name "Sawzall". Available in corded versions for sustained power and increasingly capable cordless models for portability. Variable speed control enhances its versatility across different materials.
Band Saw (Vertical)

  1. Band Saw (Vertical)

  • A stationary power saw characterized by a long, continuous loop blade made of a thin band of steel with teeth on one edge, running over two or more wheels. Vertical band saws, common in woodworking shops, feature a table surface through which the blade passes vertically, allowing the operator to feed and maneuver the workpiece into the blade. They are primarily used for cutting curves, irregular shapes, and circles in wood and other materials. A key application in woodworking is resawing – slicing thicker boards into thinner ones along their width. While capable of straight cuts (rip cuts and crosscuts), their strength lies in curved work. Blade selection (width, tooth count, tooth shape) is critical and varies depending on the material (wood, metal, plastic) and the type of cut (tight curves require narrower blades, resawing benefits from wider blades). Vertical band saws offer greater throat depth (distance from blade to vertical frame) than scroll saws, allowing for cuts further from the edge of larger workpieces, and can handle thicker stock than jigsaws. Models range from small benchtop units to large floor-standing industrial machines. Metal-cutting variants typically operate at much lower speeds and may incorporate coolant systems.
Track Saw

  1. Track Saw (Plunge Cut Saw)

  • A specialized handheld circular saw system designed for making exceptionally straight, precise, and clean cuts, particularly in large sheet materials like plywood, MDF, and solid surface countertops. Its defining feature is a guide track (or rail) that the saw base rides along; this track ensures the saw follows a perfectly straight line and typically has an anti-splinter strip along the cutting edge to prevent tear-out on the top surface of the material. Track saws employ a plunge-cut mechanism, where the blade is normally retracted within the housing and can be smoothly plunged down into the material to start or end a cut anywhere on the workpiece, not just from the edge. This makes them ideal for cutting openings (like sink cutouts) or precise stopped cuts. They offer accuracy rivaling a table saw but with greater portability and ease of use for breaking down large sheets. Commonly used for trimming doors to size, accurately cutting panels for cabinetry and furniture, and making precise joinery cuts.14 While generally more expensive than standard circular saws, their precision and cut quality often justify the cost for fine woodworking and professional applications.
Vertical Panel Saw

  1. Panel Saw (Vertical/Horizontal)

  • A large-format saw specifically engineered for accurately and safely cutting large, heavy sheets or panels of material such as plywood, MDF, particleboard, plastics, and sometimes non-ferrous metals. Panel saws come in two main configurations: vertical and horizontal. Vertical panel saws feature a large frame against which the sheet is placed vertically; the saw motor and blade assembly travel along guide rails either vertically (for crosscuts) or horizontally (for rip cuts) across the stationary panel. This design is space-efficient, making it popular in smaller workshops. Horizontal panel saws, often resembling large table saws with sliding tables or beam saws, require more floor space but typically offer higher precision, faster throughput, and greater potential for automation (CNC control), making them common in high-volume production environments like cabinet shops and furniture factories. Both types provide superior support and control for large sheets compared to attempting similar cuts on a standard table saw or with handheld saws, enhancing both accuracy and operator safety. They are essential tools in industries that rely heavily on processing sheet goods.
Scroll Saw

  1. Scroll Saw

  • A small, electrically powered benchtop saw designed for making highly intricate curved cuts, sharp angles, and detailed patterns in thin materials (typically wood up to 3/4" or 1" thick, but also plastics and thin metals with appropriate blades). It utilizes a very fine, short reciprocating blade (moving up and down rapidly) that is held under tension between an upper and lower arm. This fine blade allows for much tighter turns and more delicate cuts than a jigsaw or band saw, making it the tool of choice for detailed scrollwork, fretwork, marquetry, intarsia, model building, toy making, and cutting out complex shapes like puzzle pieces or lettering. The table can usually be tilted to allow for beveled cuts. A key feature is the ability to make internal cuts: a small pilot hole is drilled in the workpiece, the blade is detached from the upper arm, threaded through the hole, and reattached, allowing the user to cut out internal shapes. Blade selection (size, tooth pattern) is crucial for achieving good results in different materials.
Concrete Saw

  1. Concrete Saw (Cut-off Saw - Concrete)

  • A powerful, heavy-duty saw specifically designed for cutting hard, abrasive materials such as concrete, asphalt, stone, brick, and masonry. These saws typically employ abrasive composite discs or, more commonly, diamond-impregnated circular blades to grind through the material. They are available in various forms: handheld models (resembling large circular saws or angle grinders, often called cut-off saws) for smaller jobs or vertical cuts, and larger walk-behind machines for cutting horizontally across slabs, floors, roads, and sidewalks. Many concrete saws incorporate a water delivery system ("wet cutting") that sprays water onto the blade during operation; this cools the blade, suppresses hazardous silica dust, and improves cutting performance and blade life. Key applications include cutting expansion or control joints in concrete slabs, creating openings for plumbing or electrical work, cutting pavement for road repairs, demolition tasks, and scoring or trimming masonry units. Gas engines are common power sources for portability and power, especially for outdoor work, although electric models are also available. Specialized versions include wall saws (track-mounted for precise vertical cuts) and concrete chain saws (for deep plunge cuts or square corners).
Wet Tile Saw

  1. Wet Tile Saw

  • A specialized power saw designed explicitly for cutting ceramic, porcelain, glass, and natural stone tiles with high precision and minimal chipping. It resembles a small table saw but incorporates a water reservoir and pump system that continuously floods the diamond-coated cutting blade with water during operation. This "wet cutting" method is crucial for several reasons: it cools the blade to prevent overheating and damage, lubricates the cut for smoother edges, and significantly suppresses the fine, hazardous dust generated when cutting tile. Wet tile saws are indispensable for tile installation projects, enabling installers to make accurate straight cuts, diagonal (miter) cuts, bevel cuts (by tilting the table or blade), L-shaped cuts, and notches to fit tiles around obstacles or into corners. Most models feature an adjustable rip fence for guiding straight cuts and a miter gauge for setting angles. They range from small, portable tabletop models suitable for DIYers to larger, professional-grade saws with sliding tables for handling bigger tiles and higher volumes of work.
Cold Saw (Metal Cutting)

  1. Cold Saw (Metal Cutting)

  • A circular saw optimized for making precise, high-quality cuts in metal. Unlike abrasive chop saws, cold saws use a toothed blade, typically made from High-Speed Steel (HSS) or featuring Tungsten Carbide Tips (TCT), which rotates at a much slower speed. This slow speed, combined with a high chip load per tooth and often the use of a coolant/lubrication system, allows the heat generated during cutting to be effectively transferred into the metal chips, keeping both the blade and the workpiece relatively cool. This "cold" cutting process results in minimal heat distortion, fewer sparks, a clean, burr-free finish, and excellent dimensional accuracy. Cold saws are used to cut a wide range of ferrous and non-ferrous metals, including steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, and brass, in various forms like solid bars, tubes, angles, and extrusions. They are essential tools in metal fabrication shops, machine shops, and manufacturing facilities where cut quality and precision are paramount. Models range from manual feed saws to semi-automatic and fully automatic production machines.
Chop Saw (Abrasive Cut-off Saw)

  1. Chop Saw (Abrasive Cut-off Saw - Metal)

  • A power saw, typically benchtop or stationary, specifically designed for cutting ferrous metals like steel, iron pipe, and rebar using a consumable abrasive disc (wheel) instead of a toothed blade. The saw features a high-speed motor that spins the abrasive wheel, which grinds its way through the metal workpiece, usually clamped in a built-in vise. Abrasive chop saws are known for their ability to cut through hard metals relatively quickly. However, the abrasive cutting process generates significant heat, sparks, and burrs, resulting in a less precise cut with a potentially rough finish compared to a cold saw. They are generally not suitable for cutting non-ferrous metals like aluminum, as these softer materials tend to load up and clog the abrasive wheel. Commonly used in construction, fabrication, and repair shops for quick cutoff of metal stock where high precision or a clean finish is not the primary requirement.

  1. Metal Nibbler

  • A specialized power tool for cutting sheet metal, particularly useful for making curved or intricate cuts and for cutting profiled or corrugated sheets without causing distortion or warping. It operates using a punch and die mechanism that removes small semicircular "nibbles" of material as the tool advances, effectively chewing its way through the metal. This cutting action avoids the bending or stretching forces associated with shears, preserving the flatness of the surrounding material. Nibblers can easily follow tight curves and patterns, and can be used to start cuts in the middle of a sheet after drilling a pilot hole. The main drawback is the creation of numerous small metal chips as waste material, which requires cleanup. They are available in electric (corded and cordless) and pneumatic versions and are commonly used in HVAC fabrication (ductwork), roofing, automotive body repair, and general sheet metal work.
Power Metal Shears

  1. Power Metal Shears

  • A power tool designed to cut sheet metal using a scissor-like action, with two blades moving past each other to sever the material.1 Power shears are efficient for making fast, straight cuts or long, gentle curves in flat sheet metal. Unlike nibblers, they do not remove material or create chips during the cut, resulting in a cleaner work area. However, the shearing action, particularly with single-cut models, can sometimes cause slight distortion, warping, or bending along the cut edge. Double-cut shears are designed to minimize this distortion. Available in various power sources including electric (corded/cordless) and pneumatic. They are widely used in sheet metal fabrication, HVAC work, roofing, auto body repair, and for cutting materials like metal studs or ductwork. The choice between shears and nibblers often depends on the required cut shape (straight vs. intricate curve), the material profile (flat vs. corrugated), and whether minimal distortion or zero waste chips is more critical.
    Electric Rotary Cutter

  1. Electric Rotary Cutter (Fabric/Craft)

  • A handheld electric tool equipped with a small, rotating circular blade, specifically designed for cutting soft materials, primarily multiple layers of fabric, cloth, or textiles. It offers a significant advantage over manual rotary cutters or scissors by reducing hand fatigue and increasing cutting speed, especially when dealing with large quantities or thick stacks of material. Commonly used in sewing, quilting, upholstery, crafting, and garment production. Many models feature integrated blade sharpeners to maintain cutting efficiency and safety guards to protect the user's fingers. While primarily for fabric, some may also cut other soft materials like paper, thin leather, vinyl, or cardboard. Available in corded electric models, with some specialized long-handled versions for cutting on large tables.
Hot Wire Foam Cutter

  1. Hot Wire Foam Cutter

  • A specialized cutting tool that utilizes an electrically heated wire, typically made of Nichrome, to slice through various types of foam, such as Expanded Polystyrene (EPS, commonly called Styrofoam), Extruded Polystyrene (XPS), and polyethylene foams. The hot wire cuts by melting the foam along its path, resulting in a very smooth, clean edge with minimal dust or debris compared to mechanical cutting methods like sawing or sanding. This tool is ideal for shaping, carving, and precisely cutting foam for a wide range of applications including architectural models, prototypes (e.g., aerodynamic shapes), theatrical props and scenery, signage letters, hobbyist projects (model railroad terrain, gaming scenery), craft decorations, and cutting insulation boards. Hot wire foam cutters come in various forms, from simple handheld pens or wands and bow cutters to more elaborate tabletop machines offering greater control and capacity.137 The temperature of the wire is usually adjustable via a power supply to suit different foam densities and cutting speeds.

Grinding, Sanding, and Finishing Tools

    This category includes tools designed to remove material through abrasion, typically for shaping, smoothing, sharpening, polishing, or cleaning surfaces. They utilize abrasive wheels, belts, discs, or oscillating pads to achieve the desired finish on various materials.

Angle Grinder

  1. Angle Grinder

  • A highly versatile handheld power tool featuring a geared head that mounts a rotating disc (abrasive wheel, cutting disc, wire brush, sanding disc, polishing pad) at a right angle to the motor body. Its primary functions include grinding down metal (e.g., smoothing welds, removing excess material), cutting metal, tile, stucco, and pavers, deburring, removing rust or paint (with wire brushes or flap discs), sharpening tools, and polishing surfaces. Its adaptability comes from the wide variety of available discs. Angle grinders are indispensable in metal fabrication, construction, auto body repair, plumbing, masonry, and emergency rescue operations. Key specifications are the disc diameter (common sizes are 4.5", 5", 7", 9") and motor power (amperage or wattage), which generally correlate. They are available in corded electric, cordless battery-powered, and pneumatic (air-powered) versions to suit different power availability and portability needs. Safety features typically include an adjustable wheel guard and a side handle for two-handed control.
Bench Grinder

  1. Bench Grinder

  • A stationary benchtop machine powered by an electric motor that drives one or two abrasive grinding wheels. Its main purpose is sharpening metal cutting tools such as drill bits, chisels, gouges, lathe tools, and lawn mower blades. It's also used for general-purpose grinding, shaping, smoothing rough edges, and deburring metal parts. By replacing the grinding wheels with wire brush wheels or buffing/polishing wheels, it can be used for cleaning rust or polishing metal surfaces. Bench grinders typically include adjustable tool rests to support the workpiece at the correct angle during grinding and transparent eye shields for safety. Often equipped with two wheels of different grits (e.g., a coarse wheel for heavy material removal and a fine wheel for finishing or sharpening). A standard utility tool found in many workshops, garages, and maintenance facilities.
Die Grinder (Straight)

  1. Die Grinder (Straight/Angle)

  • A small, handheld rotary tool characterized by its high rotational speed (RPM), designed for precision grinding, sanding, honing, polishing, deburring, or machining, primarily on metal but also applicable to wood and plastic. It uses a collet chuck (commonly 1/4" or 1/8") to hold various small rotary accessories like mounted points (grinding stones), rotary burrs (carbide or HSS), sanding drums, polishing bobs, and small cutting wheels. Available in two main configurations: straight (inline), where the spindle is parallel to the motor body, offering good control for detailed work; and right-angle, where the spindle is perpendicular, allowing access into tight or awkward spaces. Common applications include cleaning up welds, deburring freshly cut metal edges, porting and polishing engine cylinders or intake manifolds in automotive work, smoothing die castings, wood carving, and detailed finishing tasks where larger grinders are too bulky or aggressive. Power sources include pneumatic (air-powered), electric (corded), and cordless battery-powered models. Pneumatic die grinders are often favored in industrial and automotive settings for their high power-to-weight ratio, durability, and resistance to overheating during prolonged use.
Random Orbital Sander

  1. Random Orbital Sander

  • A popular handheld power sander that utilizes a circular sanding pad which moves in a unique "random orbit" pattern – it both spins in a circle and oscillates (moves slightly back and forth) simultaneously. This dual action is highly effective at removing material while preventing the creation of the swirl marks that can be left by purely orbital or rotary sanders, resulting in a smoother, finer finish suitable for painting or staining. It's a versatile tool suitable for both aggressive stock removal (using coarse grit sandpaper) and fine finish sanding (using fine grit sandpaper) on wood surfaces. Effective on both flat and contoured surfaces due to the pliable backing pad. Most random orbital sanders use hook-and-loop (Velcro-style) abrasive discs, typically 5 or 6 inches in diameter, allowing for quick and easy grit changes. They are available in corded electric and cordless battery-powered versions. Effective dust collection, either via an onboard canister or a connection port for a vacuum hose, is a common and important feature to manage sawdust. Widely used by woodworkers, furniture refinishers, painters, and DIYers for surface preparation and finishing.
Belt Sander

  1. Belt Sander

  • A powerful sander that uses a continuous loop of sandpaper (a belt) stretched between two drums (one driven by the motor, one an idler). Belt sanders are designed for rapid material removal over larger surface areas. They excel at tasks like quickly smoothing rough lumber, leveling uneven surfaces (like floorboards or glued-up panels), stripping old paint or varnish, and initial shaping or scribing of wood. They are generally considered too aggressive for fine finish work. Available as handheld, portable units for maneuverability and larger stationary or benchtop models (sometimes combined with a disc sander) for working on wider boards or providing a stable sanding platform. Handheld models require careful handling to avoid gouging the workpiece due to their power. Dust collection systems are important as they generate significant amounts of dust. Used extensively in woodworking, floor refinishing, and general construction/remodeling.
Palm Sander

  1. Detail Sander (Palm Sander / Mouse Sander)

  • A small, lightweight handheld power sander designed for fine finishing work, especially in tight corners, along edges, and on intricate details where larger sanders cannot reach. Often features a triangular or teardrop-shaped sanding pad (resembling a clothes iron or computer mouse, hence the nickname "mouse sander") that allows access into confined spaces. Operates with an orbital or oscillating motion. Ideal for smoothing intricate wood carvings, preparing furniture details for finishing, sanding between coats of paint or varnish, and reaching into corners of frames or cabinets. Less aggressive than belt or random orbital sanders, prioritizing control and precision over rapid material removal. Typically uses hook-and-loop sandpaper sheets cut to fit the specific pad shape. Available in corded and cordless versions. Some models come with interchangeable pads or finger attachments for very specific sanding tasks.

  1. Drywall Sander (Pole Sander)

  • A specialized sander designed specifically for smoothing drywall joint compound (mud) and plaster surfaces on walls and ceilings after installation or repair. Typically features a large-diameter (e.g., 9-inch or 225mm) round sanding head mounted on a long, often telescopic pole, allowing the user to easily reach high walls and ceilings without ladders or scaffolding. The sanding head often pivots or articulates for better control on uneven surfaces. Most drywall sanders incorporate or connect to a vacuum system for highly effective dust extraction, which is crucial for managing the large amount of fine drywall dust produced. Variable speed control allows adjustment for different levels of sanding aggressiveness. Using a power drywall sander is significantly faster and less physically demanding than manual sanding, especially on large areas.Primarily uses mesh or paper sanding discs with hook-and-loop attachment.

  1. Oscillating Spindle Sander

  • A stationary or benchtop woodworking sander designed for smoothing curved edges, contours, and the inside surfaces of holes. It features a rotating cylindrical sanding drum (spindle) covered with an abrasive sleeve, which also oscillates vertically (moves up and down) as it spins. This oscillating motion distributes wear across the abrasive sleeve, reduces heat buildup, prevents burning, and results in a smoother finish without horizontal scratch marks. Typically comes with interchangeable spindles and abrasive sleeves of various diameters (e.g., 1/2" to 3") to accommodate different curve radii and hole sizes. The work table often tilts (e.g., up to 45 degrees) to allow for sanding beveled edges on curved workpieces. Essential for woodworkers making projects with curved components, such as furniture parts, toys, or patterns. Includes dust collection ports for managing sawdust.
Surface Grinder

  1. Surface Grinder (Metalworking)

  • A high-precision machine tool used in metalworking to produce very flat, smooth, and accurately dimensioned surfaces on metal workpieces. It utilizes a rotating abrasive grinding wheel that removes small amounts of material from the workpiece, which is typically held securely on a table using a magnetic chuck or vise. The table moves reciprocally (back and forth) and/or rotationally beneath the grinding wheel, while the wheel itself can be precisely lowered (fed) to achieve the desired dimension and surface finish. Surface grinders are essential for tool and die making, mold finishing, producing precision flat components for machinery (like ways or bases), and grinding hard materials that are difficult to machine by other methods. Different types exist based on spindle orientation (horizontal or vertical) and table movement. They provide superior flatness and surface finish compared to milling or turning for final finishing operations.
Bench Buffer/Polisher

  1. Bench Buffer/Polisher

  • A stationary benchtop machine, similar in appearance to a bench grinder, but designed specifically for buffing and polishing surfaces to a high shine. Instead of abrasive grinding wheels, it uses soft buffing wheels made of materials like cotton or felt, often mounted on extended spindles to provide more clearance for maneuvering the workpiece. Polishing compounds (abrasive pastes or waxes) are applied to the rotating buffing wheels to achieve the desired level of smoothness and luster. Bench buffers are used to polish a wide variety of materials, including metals (jewelry, knives, automotive chrome, aluminum), plastics, wood, and jade. They typically lack the tool rests and eye shields found on bench grinders. Ideal for jewelers, knife makers, metalworkers, woodworkers (polishing finishes), and hobbyists requiring a high-gloss finish.
Belt/Disc Sander Combination

  1. Belt/Disc Sander Combination

  • Description/Uses: A versatile stationary sanding machine that combines both a belt sander and a disc sander into a single unit, typically sharing a common motor.1 The belt sander component, usually oriented horizontally or vertically, is used for sanding flat surfaces, edges, and smoothing larger pieces of stock. The disc sander component, a flat circular disc covered with abrasive paper, is ideal for sanding end grain, shaping outside curves, creating bevels and chamfers (often with a tilting table and miter gauge), and fine-tuning joints. This combination offers a wide range of sanding capabilities in a relatively compact footprint, making it popular in woodworking shops for shaping, smoothing, and finishing tasks. Different grit abrasives can be used on both the belt and disc for varying levels of material removal and smoothness. Dust collection ports are usually included for both sanding sections.
Drum Sander

  1. Drum Sander (Thickness Sander)

  • A woodworking machine designed to sand the faces of boards to a precise thickness and achieve a smooth, flat surface, particularly useful for wide panels or figured wood prone to tear-out in a planer. It works by feeding the workpiece under a rotating cylindrical drum wrapped with abrasive paper, via a conveyor belt. Unlike a thickness planer which uses knives for cutting, the drum sander uses abrasion, allowing for very fine adjustments and the ability to sand thin stock (even down to veneer thickness) that planers cannot handle. It excels at removing milling marks left by planers, calibrating stock to a final uniform thickness, and finish-sanding large surfaces like glued-up panels or cabinet doors before applying finish. Drum sanders remove material much more slowly than planers and are not intended for significant thickness reduction; attempting heavy stock removal can cause heat buildup and burning. Models include open-ended (allowing sanding of panels wider than the drum in two passes) and closed-ended (often with two drums for progressive sanding) designs. Effective dust collection is essential.

  1. Edge Sander

  • A stationary woodworking sander featuring a long, wide sanding belt, typically oriented vertically or horizontally, designed primarily for sanding the edges of boards and panels. It provides a large, flat sanding surface (platen) against which workpieces can be held to achieve straight, square, or beveled edges. Many edge sanders have a table to support the workpiece perpendicular to the belt, often with a miter gauge slot. The end drum of the belt can often be used for sanding inside curves (concave edges). Some models feature oscillating belts (moving up and down) to distribute wear and improve finish quality. Used extensively in cabinet shops and furniture making for tasks like smoothing sawn edges, flushing solid wood edging with panels, sanding the edges of cabinet doors and drawer fronts, fairing curves, and breaking sharp corners. Can handle long stock when properly supported.
Car Polisher/Buffer

  1. Car Polisher/Buffer

  • A handheld power tool designed specifically for applying, working in, and removing polishes, waxes, and compounds on automotive paint surfaces to enhance shine, remove imperfections (swirls, light scratches, oxidation), and protect the finish. Two main types exist: Rotary Polishers (Buffers) and Dual-Action (DA) Polishers. Rotary polishers spin the backing pad on a single axis at high speed, generating more heat and cutting power, making them effective for correcting heavier paint defects but requiring more skill to avoid burning or damaging the paint. Dual-action polishers combine a spinning motion with an oscillating (random orbit) motion, generating less heat and providing a safer, more user-friendly experience, ideal for beginners and for applying waxes or sealants, while still capable of light to moderate paint correction. They use foam, microfiber, or wool pads attached via hook-and-loop backing plates. Variable speed control is a key feature for adjusting aggressiveness.

Woodworking (Stationary & Specialized)

This section covers larger stationary machines typically found in woodworking shops, as well as specialized handheld tools primarily used for wood joinery and shaping tasks.

Router

  1. Router

  • A versatile power tool, available as handheld units or mounted in router tables, used primarily for shaping edges, cutting grooves (dadoes, rabbets), creating decorative profiles, and making various joinery cuts in wood. It works by spinning a cutting bit (router bit) at very high speeds (RPMs). Handheld routers come in two main types: Fixed Base, where the cutting depth is set before operation, ideal for edge work; and Plunge Base, where the motor can be plunged down into the workpiece to start cuts away from the edge, useful for mortises, stopped grooves, and template work. Router tables hold the router upside down, allowing the workpiece to be guided past the bit for greater control, accuracy, and safety, especially with smaller pieces or larger bits. Routers are essential for cabinet making, furniture building, sign making, and general woodworking.5 A vast array of router bit profiles are available for different cuts.
Thickness Planer

  1. Thickness Planer

  • A woodworking machine designed to trim boards to a consistent thickness throughout their length and make the two faces parallel to each other. It works by feeding a board (which must already have one flat face, typically created by a jointer) between a rotating cutterhead (above the board) and a flat bed or rollers (below the board). The cutterhead removes material from the top face of the board, making it parallel to the bottom face and reducing it to the desired thickness set by adjusting the height of the cutterhead/bed. Thickness planers are essential for dimensioning rough-sawn lumber to precise, uniform thicknesses required for furniture making, cabinetry, and other fine woodworking projects.11 They cannot flatten a warped board on their own (that's the jointer's job) but ensure consistent thickness once one face is flat. Available in portable benchtop models and larger stationary machines.

  1. Jointer

  • A stationary woodworking machine used primarily to produce a perfectly flat face on one side of a board and a perfectly straight edge that is square (90 degrees) to that flattened face. It features two parallel tables, an infeed table and an outfeed table, with a rotating cutterhead positioned between them. The infeed table is set slightly lower than the cutterhead and outfeed table; as the workpiece is fed across the infeed table and over the cutterhead, the knives remove material to match the height of the outfeed table, thereby flattening the surface. A fence, typically set at 90 degrees to the tables, is used as a reference to straighten and square an edge after one face has been flattened. Jointing is typically the first step in milling rough lumber, creating the essential flat face and square edge needed as references for subsequent operations like thickness planing and ripping on a table saw. Jointers cannot make two faces parallel or thickness a board; that is the role of the thickness planer. Available in benchtop models and larger floor-standing machines, with widths typically ranging from 6 inches upwards.
Wood Lathe

  1. Wood Lathe

  • A woodworking machine used for shaping wood by rotating a workpiece on its axis while applying cutting tools to it. It allows for the creation of cylindrical forms, tapers, curves, and intricate details. Common projects include turning bowls, spindles (like table legs, chair legs, balusters), pens, tool handles, decorative objects, and round components. The workpiece is held between a headstock (which contains the drive mechanism) and a tailstock (which provides support at the opposite end) for spindle turning, or mounted solely on the headstock (often using a faceplate or chuck) for faceplate turning (like bowls). Specialized hand-held turning tools (gouges, chisels, scrapers, parting tools) are rested on a tool rest and carefully advanced into the spinning wood to remove material and create the desired shape. Lathes vary in size from mini/benchtop models for small projects like pens, to midi lathes for bowls and medium spindles, up to large full-size lathes for furniture components. Key specifications include swing over bed (maximum diameter) and distance between centers (maximum length). Variable speed control is a highly desirable feature.

  1. Router Table

  • A stationary woodworking setup consisting of a flat table with an opening through which a router bit protrudes, driven by a router motor mounted underneath. This configuration allows the woodworker to guide the workpiece against the router bit (using a fence or the bit's bearing), rather than guiding the router over the workpiece. Router tables offer increased control, stability, and safety compared to handheld routing, especially when working with small pieces, large bits, or making precise cuts. They excel at tasks like edge profiling (creating decorative edges on trim or panels), cutting joinery (dados, rabbets, grooves, mortises, tenons with jigs), shaping curved parts using templates, raising panels for doors, and making repeatable cuts. Key components include the table top, an insert plate to mount the router, a fence (often adjustable and split), a miter gauge slot, and dust collection ports. Router lifts are often added for precise bit height adjustment. While less powerful than a shaper, a well-equipped router table is a highly versatile centerpiece in many woodworking shops.

  1. Wood Shaper

  • A heavy-duty stationary woodworking machine used for cutting profiles, grooves, and joinery on the edges or faces of wood, similar in function to a router table but significantly more powerful and capable of handling larger cutters and heavier cuts. Instead of router bits with shanks, shapers use larger cutter heads that mount directly onto a vertical spindle (typically 1/2", 3/4", 1", or 1-1/4" diameter) that protrudes through the table. Powered by robust induction motors (often 1.5 HP to 5 HP or more) via belt drive, shapers offer greater torque and can remove large amounts of material in a single pass, making them ideal for production work, door making (raising panels, cutting stiles and rails), creating large moldings, and heavy profiling tasks. Many shapers feature reversible spindle rotation and tilting spindles, offering greater flexibility in cutter orientation and grain direction management to minimize tear-out. While some shapers can be adapted to use router bits via collets, their lower typical RPM range compared to routers makes them less suitable for small-diameter bits. Shapers require careful setup and safety precautions due to their power and exposed cutters.
Mortiser (Hollow Chisel Mortiser)


  1. Mortiser (Hollow Chisel Mortiser)

  • A specialized woodworking machine designed to efficiently and accurately cut square or rectangular holes, known as mortises, primarily for mortise and tenon joinery. The most common type is the hollow chisel mortiser, which resembles a drill press but uses a unique cutting tool consisting of a square, four-sided hollow chisel with a drill bit (auger) rotating inside it. As the tool is plunged into the workpiece (typically via a lever or geared handwheel), the drill bit removes the bulk of the waste material, while the sharp edges of the surrounding chisel shear the walls of the hole, creating a clean, square-cornered mortise. This method is significantly faster and more accurate than cutting mortises by hand or with a router setup for repetitive joinery work. Mortisers are available as dedicated benchtop or floor-standing machines. Proper setup, including sharpening the chisel and bit and setting the correct clearance between them, is crucial for optimal performance and preventing overheating or jamming. Essential for furniture making and cabinetry involving traditional joinery.

  1. Biscuit Joiner (Plate Joiner)

  • A power tool used in woodworking to create strong, quick, and accurately aligned joints between two pieces of wood. It features a small circular saw blade (typically 4 inches) that plunges into the wood to cut a crescent-shaped slot. Oval-shaped, compressed wood discs called "biscuits" are then coated with glue and inserted into the matching slots of the joining pieces. When the water-based glue is absorbed, the biscuit swells slightly, locking the joint tightly together and ensuring precise alignment. Biscuit joinery is commonly used for edge-to-edge joints (like joining boards to make a tabletop), face-to-edge joints (cabinet construction, attaching face frames), miter joints (picture frames, boxes), and T-joints. It excels at providing alignment during glue-up, preventing pieces from slipping. While not as strong as traditional mortise and tenon joints, biscuit joints are sufficient for many furniture and cabinetry applications and are significantly faster to create. The tool has adjustable depth settings for different biscuit sizes (#0, #10, #20 being common) and an adjustable fence for setting the slot position and angle. Also known as a plate joiner.
Doweling Jig

  1. Doweling Jig

  • Description/Uses: A woodworking guide tool used in conjunction with a power drill to accurately drill holes for dowel pins, enabling the creation of strong and often invisible dowel joints. Dowel joints use cylindrical wooden pins (dowels) inserted into precisely aligned holes in mating workpieces, secured with glue, to join them together. A doweling jig clamps onto the workpiece and features hardened steel drill guide bushings positioned at specific intervals and centered relative to the jig's reference edges. By referencing the jig consistently on both pieces being joined, it ensures that the drilled holes align perfectly when the pieces are brought together. This accuracy is key to the strength and appearance of the joint. Doweling jigs are used for various joints, including edge-to-edge (panel glue-ups), end-to-face (cabinet construction, drawer corners), and miter joints. They offer a strong, cost-effective joinery method accessible to most woodworkers. Different jigs accommodate various wood thicknesses and dowel diameters. Some jigs are self-centering, while others require careful alignment based on markings.
Pocket Hole Jig

  1. Pocket Hole Jig

  • A specialized jig used with a power drill to create angled "pocket" holes in one workpiece, allowing it to be joined to another piece using self-tapping pocket hole screws. The jig guides a special stepped drill bit at a precise low angle (typically 15 degrees) into the edge or face of the wood. This creates a pocket for the screw head and a pilot hole for the screw shank. The screw then exits the first piece and drives into the second piece, pulling the joint tightly together without the need for complex clamping or long glue drying times. Pocket hole joinery is known for its speed, simplicity, and strength, making it extremely popular for building face frames, cabinets, bookcases, furniture, and for general repairs. Jigs range from simple, portable single-hole guides to benchtop systems with integrated clamping and multiple drill guides. Key components include hardened steel drill guides, material thickness settings, and often a clamp mechanism. Kreg Tool is a dominant brand in this category.

  1. Festool Domino Joiner

  • A unique power tool from Festool that combines the functionality of a biscuit joiner and a traditional mortiser to create strong, precise floating tenon joints. It uses a patented mechanism where a specialized spiral cutter bit both rotates and oscillates side-to-side simultaneously, quickly plunging into the workpiece to cut a smooth, flat-bottomed mortise (slot). Pre-fabricated loose tenons, called "Dominos" (made of beech or sipo wood, available in various sizes), are then glued into the matching mortises in both pieces being joined. This system creates joints that are significantly stronger and more rotation-proof than biscuits or dowels, approaching the strength of traditional mortise and tenon joints but created much faster and with less setup. Features include adjustable mortise width (for alignment tolerance), precise depth control, adjustable fence for angled mortises, and indexing pins for accurate spacing. Used extensively in furniture making, cabinet construction, door making, and other applications requiring strong, accurate joinery. Available in different models (e.g., DF 500 for smaller tenons, DF 700 for larger ones).

Outdoor Power Equipment (Gardening & Landscaping)

    This category covers power tools specifically designed for lawn care, gardening, tree maintenance, and managing yard waste.


Lawn Mower

  1. Lawn Mower (Walk-behind/Riding/Robotic)

  • Description/Uses: An essential machine for lawn maintenance, designed to cut grass to an even height. Available in several types based on propulsion and operation: Push Mowers (manual or reel) require the user to provide forward motion, suitable for small, flat yards; Self-Propelled Mowers have powered wheels, reducing user effort, ideal for medium yards or slopes; Riding Mowers (lawn tractors or zero-turn mowers) allow the user to sit and steer, best for large lawns (1/2 acre or more); Robotic Mowers operate autonomously within a set boundary, suitable for small to medium yards and tech-savvy users. Power sources include gasoline engines (powerful, suitable for large/tough lawns but noisy and require maintenance) , corded electric (quiet, emission-free but limited by cord length), and battery-powered cordless electric (quiet, eco-friendly, mobile but limited by battery runtime and potentially less powerful than gas). Features may include mulching, bagging, side discharge, variable speed, and smart technology.
String Trimmer

  1. String Trimmer (Weed Eater/Weed Whacker)

  • A versatile lawn care tool that uses a rapidly spinning monofilament line (string) to cut grass, weeds, and light vegetation. Primarily used for trimming grass in areas inaccessible to lawn mowers, such as along fences, walls, trees, and garden beds, and for edging along sidewalks and driveways.Can also be used to clear taller grass and weeds. Available with different power sources: gasoline engines (powerful, suitable for large areas or thick weeds, but heavier, noisier, and require fuel mixing/maintenance) ; corded electric (lightweight, quiet, but limited by cord); and battery-powered cordless (mobile, quiet, low maintenance, but limited by battery life and potentially less powerful than gas). Shaft designs include straight shafts (better reach under obstacles, often compatible with attachments) and curved shafts (often lighter and easier to maneuver for basic trimming). Line feeding mechanisms vary (bump feed, automatic feed). Some models accept blade attachments for cutting thicker brush.
Leaf Blower

  1. Leaf Blower

  • An outdoor power tool designed to propel air out of a nozzle to move light debris like leaves, grass clippings, light snow, and dirt. Primarily used for clearing lawns, driveways, patios, decks, and gutters of fallen leaves and other yard waste, making cleanup faster and easier than manual raking or sweeping. Available in handheld models (common for general use), backpack models (more powerful and comfortable for extended use over large areas) , and some models offer vacuuming and mulching capabilities (leaf blower/vac). Power sources include gasoline engines (most powerful, suitable for large volumes or wet debris, but heavy, noisy, and produce emissions); corded electric (lightweight, quiet, but limited by cord); and battery-powered cordless (convenient, quiet, eco-friendly, but limited by battery runtime and power compared to gas). Key specifications include air speed (MPH) and air volume (CFM).
Hedge Trimmer

  1. Hedge Trimmer

  • A power tool equipped with a reciprocating cutting bar with multiple teeth, designed for trimming, shaping, and maintaining hedges, shrubs, and bushes. Provides a faster, cleaner, and less laborious method for shearing foliage compared to manual hedge shears. The cutting bar consists of two blades with teeth that move back and forth against each other, cutting small branches and leaves that enter the gaps. Typically designed to cut branches up to about 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch in diameter; not suitable for thick branches. Available power sources include gasoline engines (powerful, cordless, but heavier and noisier) ; corded electric (lightweight, quiet, but limited by cord) ; and battery-powered cordless (combining portability with low noise and emissions, but limited by battery life). Blade length varies, affecting reach and cutting swath. Some models feature articulating heads or extended reach (pole hedge trimmers) for tall or awkwardly shaped hedges.
Chainsaw

  1. Chainsaw

  • Description/Uses: A portable power saw that cuts with a set of teeth attached to a rotating chain driven along a guide bar. Primarily used for tree felling (cutting down trees), limbing (removing branches from a felled tree), bucking (cutting a felled tree into logs), pruning thick branches, cutting firewood, and clearing brush. Specialized chainsaws can also be used for cutting concrete, stone, brick, or ice. Available in various sizes, determined by engine displacement (for gas models) or voltage/amperage (for electric/battery models) and guide bar length. Power sources include gasoline engines (most powerful, suitable for heavy-duty work but noisy, require fuel mixing, and produce emissions) ; corded electric (quieter, lighter, less maintenance, but limited by cord) ; and battery-powered cordless (convenient, quiet, emission-free, easier to start, but limited by battery runtime and power compared to gas). Chainsaws require careful handling and proper safety gear due to the risk of kickback and injury.
    Pole Pruner

  1. Pole Saw (Pole Pruner)

  • A specialized chainsaw or pruning saw attached to a long, often extendable (telescopic) pole, designed for trimming tree branches and large shrubs that are beyond reach from the ground.14 Allows users to safely prune high limbs without needing to use a ladder. The cutting head typically consists of a small chainsaw bar and chain. Available with different power sources: gasoline engines (powerful but heavier and noisier), corded electric (lighter but limited by cord), and battery-powered cordless (convenient, quiet, increasingly popular). Some models are attachments for compatible string trimmer power heads. Useful for routine tree maintenance, removing dead or hazardous branches, and clearing limbs after storms. Requires careful operation due to the weight at the end of the pole and the potential for falling debris.

  1. Log Splitter

  • A piece of machinery designed specifically for splitting logs (pre-cut sections of tree trunks or large branches, called rounds) into smaller pieces suitable for firewood. Most commonly uses a hydraulic system (powered by an electric motor, gasoline engine, or tractor PTO) to drive a ram or wedge through the log with significant force (rated in tons). The log is placed on a beam or cradle, and the hydraulic ram pushes the log against a stationary wedge, or pushes a moving wedge into the stationary log, splitting it along the grain. Electric models are suitable for home use, while gas-powered models offer more power and portability for remote use. Manual log splitters using leverage also exist. Log splitters significantly reduce the time and physical effort required compared to splitting wood manually with an axe or maul.Essential for homeowners who heat with wood or anyone processing large quantities of firewood.

  1. Wood Chipper / Shredder

  • A machine designed to reduce yard waste, such as branches, twigs, and leaves, into smaller, manageable material like wood chips or mulch. Often combines two functions: Chipping, which uses rotating blades to chop larger branches (up to a specified diameter capacity) fed through a dedicated chute; and Shredding, which uses flails or hammers in a hopper to shred lighter debris like leaves, grass clippings, and small twigs. The resulting chips or shredded material can be used as mulch in garden beds, added to compost piles, or disposed of more easily. Available in electric models (suitable for light-duty cleanup of leaves and small twigs) and more powerful gasoline-engine models (capable of chipping larger branches). Key specifications include engine horsepower (or motor amperage), chipper capacity (maximum branch diameter), and reduction ratio (e.g., 10:1 indicates 10 bags of debris reduced to 1 bag). Helps manage yard debris efficiently, especially where landfill disposal is restricted.

  1. Garden Cultivator

  • A gardening power tool designed for loosening and mixing existing garden soil, typically in smaller areas like established flower beds, vegetable gardens, or around shrubs. It uses rotating tines (blades) to break up the top layer of soil, aerate it, mix in amendments (compost, fertilizer), and remove small weeds. Cultivators are generally smaller, lighter, and less powerful than garden tillers, making them easier to maneuver in tight spaces and around existing plants. They are not designed for breaking up hard, compacted soil or creating new garden plots from sod; that is the role of a tiller. Available in electric (corded or cordless) and small gas-engine models. Ideal for seasonal garden preparation, weed control between rows, and working soil in raised beds.

  1. Garden Tiller (Rototiller)

  • A more powerful gardening machine than a cultivator, designed for breaking up hard, compacted soil, turning over new ground for garden plots, and working in larger areas. It uses rotating tines to dig deeper into the soil (typically 8-10 inches) than a cultivator, effectively loosening and aerating it for planting. Tillers are ideal for preparing new garden beds, breaking up sod, mixing large amounts of soil amendments (compost, manure), and deep soil cultivation. Two main types exist: Front-Tine Tillers, where the tines are located under the engine and pull the machine forward, suitable for smaller to medium gardens and previously worked soil; and Rear-Tine Tillers, where the tines are behind the engine and often counter-rotate (spin opposite the wheels), providing more power for breaking new ground, handling hard or rocky soil, and covering large areas. Typically powered by gasoline engines due to the power required.

  1. Power Earth Auger

  • A power tool equipped with a rotating helical screw blade (auger bit) designed for drilling holes into the ground. Primarily used for digging holes for fence posts, deck footings, planting trees and shrubs, mailbox posts, and taking soil samples. Significantly faster and less labor-intensive than digging holes manually with shovels or post hole diggers. Available as one-person handheld units (typically with smaller gas engines or electric/cordless motors) or larger two-person models for bigger holes or tougher soil conditions. Some augers are attachments for tractors or skid steers. The diameter and depth of the hole depend on the size of the auger bit used. Essential for contractors involved in fencing, decking, and landscaping, as well as for homeowners undertaking similar projects.

  1. Lawn Edger

  • An outdoor power tool specifically designed to create clean, defined edges along sidewalks, driveways, curbs, and garden beds by cutting a vertical line between the lawn and the hard surface or bed. Uses a spinning blade (metal or sometimes heavy-duty string) oriented vertically to trim encroaching grass and create a neat border. Provides a more manicured and distinct edge than can typically be achieved with a string trimmer turned vertically. Available as dedicated walk-behind machines or as attachments for some string trimmers. Power sources include gasoline engines (more powerful for tougher jobs or larger properties), corded electric, and battery-powered cordless (convenient for smaller yards). Helps maintain a tidy landscape appearance and prevents grass from overgrowing onto pathways.

  1. Pressure Washer

  • A machine that uses a pump to generate high-pressure water spray for cleaning surfaces effectively. It removes dirt, grime, mold, mildew, loose paint, mud, and other contaminants from various outdoor surfaces such as driveways, sidewalks, decks, patios, fences, siding, vehicles, outdoor furniture, and equipment. Pressure washers are powered by electric motors (suitable for home use, quieter) or gasoline engines (more powerful, portable, suitable for larger or tougher jobs). Key specifications are pressure (measured in PSI - pounds per square inch) and water flow rate (measured in GPM - gallons per minute); higher numbers generally indicate greater cleaning power. Often come with interchangeable nozzles that alter the spray pattern and intensity (e.g., narrow pinpoint for tough spots, wider fan for general cleaning).Detergent tanks or injectors allow for the application of cleaning solutions. A versatile tool for home maintenance, construction site cleanup, and vehicle washing.

Automotive Specific Tools

  1. Air Compressor (Automotive Use)

  • A machine that compresses and stores air in a tank, providing a power source for various pneumatic (air-powered) tools commonly used in automotive workshops and garages. Powers tools like impact wrenches (for lug nuts, suspension work), air ratchets (for faster fastening in tight spots), die grinders (for metal work, polishing), air hammers/chisels (for separating parts, cutting exhaust), paint spray guns (for vehicle painting and finishing), and tire inflators. Also used for operating car lifts and for general cleaning/drying with blow guns. Air tools are often preferred in automotive settings for their power-to-weight ratio, durability, and ability to run cool during continuous use. Compressor size (tank capacity in gallons, airflow rate in CFM - cubic feet per minute, and pressure in PSI) must be matched to the requirements of the tools being used. Common types in workshops include piston (reciprocating) and rotary screw compressors.

  1. Pneumatic Die Grinder

  • An air-powered version of the die grinder, widely used in automotive repair and fabrication. Powered by an air compressor, it offers high rotational speeds (often 20,000-25,000 RPM or more) in a compact and lightweight package. Its high power-to-weight ratio, durability (fewer internal parts than electric models), and ability to run continuously without overheating make it ideal for demanding automotive tasks. Common uses include grinding